1) Grain , grain, grain - clearer the better

2) red cedar needs to be soaked a LOT (at least 24 hours in warm water); and steamed a LOT (start at 60 minutes after steady temp is reached)

3) assuming the ring you are making is not load bearing:  if soaking in water does not work soak in 10 - 20% ammonia.  this works, but you will have to experiment. if you leave it too long it turns the wood "mushy."  soak in plain warm water for at least 24 hours, then soak in ammonia solution for 2 - 4 hours.  then steam in regular steam. use a ventilation fan (i've used a box fan) to the outside.  i've not used ammonia in the steam generator (my box in inside my garage) but i know that's an option if you are willing to take some extra safety measures.  and you will need to thoroughly clean your generator.  

4) you will need patience and experimentation, but take courage:  i've bent red cedar for skin-on-frame kayak ribs.  success is possible with experimentation.

5) Grain , grain, grain - clearer the better

I concur mostly with Jorn and CJ.  Here is a FWW article by Michael Fortune that checks all of the boxes; I have followed his guidance with good success bending ash and cherry for shaker boxes and trays.

I found that controlling the temperature is key.  For this reason, I would be concerned about Jorn's setup; a lot of potential energy leakage.  I made a wooden box and put a cooking thermometer in the top of it with the tip in the zone where the strips to be bent would be.  It's amazing how little things lower the temperature and that really affects how the wood responds; when it's at 200-210 F, quartersawn ash and cherry are plasticized.  They also lose their plasticity very quickly as they cool so speed in getting them on the form is critical.

I also use a wallpaper steamer...similar to Jorn's and it works great with the box of 3/4 CDX plywood that I made.  Be sure to use stainless fasteners; in my first version I tried some weather resistant decking screws...rusted immediately and stained my project.

sjs

Hey Gerry, I've bent WRC before and I've found it's a pain. It's more brittle when bending. I'm not 100% to why that is the case as I don't do a lot of stem bending. Maybe due to it being a softwood, or maybe since cedar is more prone to cell collapse? Dunno. My success with steam bending cedar has come from ripping to narrow laminations and gluing it together. I also experience a lot of spring-back. So gluing laminations together really helped with that. Give me a call to discuss if you'd like.

CJ

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